About Me

My Photo
Los Olivos, California, United States
You can reach me at fool4fabric (at) gmail (dot) com

Monday, February 3, 2014

ME 'N ISABEL...

For the last several years, I've been drawn to the designs of Isabel Marant, the very popular and trendy French designer. Her clothes have a slightly bohemian 
vibe, and she has been described in the WSJ with  "her trademark look, which can be described as equal parts rock 'n' roll, California surfer girl and insouciant Parisienne." Then, in her Fall 2013 show, I saw this:


This is called the "Jayna" wool-twill studded jacket, in black wool with silver-tone brass studs, cabochons and faux pearls. Like this:

I knew that making something like this would take far longer than I expect to remain on this earth (all those gorgeous things are sewn on by hand)...and it was over $3000, so I wasn't going to buy it anytime soon. But I couldn't get it out of my head.

I had a few things going on at the time (wedding, Iran trip, etc.) so I was slow to get started. My friend Sharon, from Communing with Fabric, made a snazzy LBD with studded shoulders. I followed her process, but she wound up with sore shoulders from the force needed to apply the studs, so I decided I wanted to avoid that. A little research on the internet and I found Prisms of Light, an Etsy shop that had a great selection of hot-fix studs. And then, with a little more research, I found the tool I needed (LOVE tools...) at HotFixQueen. Do you have any IDEA how fun it is, in my little rural Post Office, to receive a package from
The Hot Fix Queen? Hahahaha....

Armed with all the photos of the original jacket I could find on the web, I made a boxy, cropped jacket from my old friend, B5526, using a wonderful very heavy weight ponte knit which Sharon had found for me at Fabrix...it has a kinda abstract design (some people think it's like a camo) in gray on a black background...the reverse side is plain gray.
Besides looking good, the weight of it seemed to me to be perfect for a studded jacket which MIGHT turn out to be somewhat heavy. (I discovered that I really should have interfaced the entire jacket, as the weight of the studs pulled the
fabric out of shape a little).

I did a lot of experimenting with various stud designs on the sleeves...



and finally came up with something that pleased me. Yes, folks, those are some
MIRRORED squares mixed in with the 3 sizes of domes and the pyramid shapes.

Now began the time-consuming part...placing the designs on the jacket, one section at a time, hitting each stud with a 20-second hot fix tool blast, then putting the finished section into my Elna Press for several minutes.


Dave got a photo of me slaving over a hot iron...Actually, the process was rather meditative and I enjoyed it...I listened to The Luminaries, by Eleanore Catton, on Audible, and also re"read" American Gods, by Neil Gaiman, also on Audible.

Here is a picture of the jacket on Ethyl...with the basic border plus the sleeves...


and here is a picture of the finished shell, ready to be lined...


So...the lining was a b..ch, due to the stretching of the shell where the studs were placed; this meant that I had to fiddle with the lining, particularly on the sleeve lining, which needed gussets to fit the shell. To make a long story short, I
put the lining in THREE times, and would never allow anyone to see what the sleeve lining looks like...

For numbers geeks, I put in a total of 806 studs...

So here are some pictures of the jacket on ME...





There is a special birthday luncheon for a friend on Wednesday, in Los Angeles, where I will wear the jacket. As long as I travel with the HOT FIX TOOL and some spare studs in my purse, I should be good to go... One of the advantages of this jacket is that wearing it counts as weight-bearing exercise...

TTYL...

66 comments:

  1. Your jacket is fabulous, all your hard work paid off.

    ReplyDelete
  2. That looks amazing! Beautiful work!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Oh my God. Breathtaking. I can't think of a more perfect thing. You look amazing.

    Love the Elna press, too (but not in the same league, of course!)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Wow! That is fabulous - and it really looks like it is worth the price of the designer version! I am a big Audible fan as well - I 'read' the books going to and from work!

    ReplyDelete
  5. They look like silver pearls. Trés jolie!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Wowzers! Love the 2nd pic from the bottom--some biker chic 'tude happenin' ;)

    ReplyDelete
  7. I'm glad to see another sewer enjoys audible books while sewing. Also interested in the process on pressing on the studs - do you need a press (as you appear to be using) rather than a domestic iron?

    ReplyDelete
  8. Fabulous! All of it! You, the jacket, the design, the effort! You make me smile.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Margy, that is FABULOUS! I am totally wowed by how much work you put into it - and it just is amazing. Love "American Gods", by the way! One of my favourite writers!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Amazing! Totally amazing. Less is definitely more in this case.

    ReplyDelete
  11. It is AMAZING! FABULUS! What a great idea! I love the end result!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Love your jacket and think it is a good tribute to Isabel's design. I enjoyed reading all about the mechanics of creating it - and envy your ability to order from the Hot Fix Queen. The postage is prohibitive down under! Enjoy showing off your wonderful jacket at Wednesday's luncheon.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Wow,that is pretty darn cool!

    ReplyDelete
  14. That is a magnificent jacket Margy! Be very proud - and have a great time at Wednesdays luncheon. (No-one will ever know about the trials with the lining as long as you don't tell :) )

    ReplyDelete
  15. This is better than the original. I will never look at studs in the same way again.

    ReplyDelete
  16. I absolutely love your jacket. It validates your design style and abilities to the highest degree. I began reading this blog with the idea you were just going to share with us the name of one of your favorite designers. Now, to see you have taken on the task, but succeeded to the highest degree is totally amazing. Keep going gurl!.....you continue to illustrate that us 'grey-topped girls' do not have to recede into the background in the style category. You remain one of those who steal the light in the room every time!

    Cynthia

    ReplyDelete
  17. Great jacket, Margy, and how brilliant was it to find a way to stud a jacket without all the pounding and sore muscles. Besides, think of the thrill you gave those postal workers. You probably made thier day. Little did they know they had a Hot Fix devotee in their midst. ; )

    ReplyDelete
  18. This jacket and your entire creative process is so incredible I have no words except to say that you've made my morning!

    ReplyDelete
  19. Fierce! And you are fearless.

    ReplyDelete
  20. I love your version more than the original. You could give this girl a run for her money!!

    ReplyDelete
  21. Wow, persistence certainly pays off. I love it--kinda rocker-biker chic and mod glam all-in-one. Great work, Margy!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  22. Wow! this jacket is stunning. I had an experience with applying studs to a sweater. It was a dud since they fell off almost as quickly as I applied them. This is a gorgeous alternative. Can it be done without a press, just the hot fix tool?
    Have you actually weighed this?

    ReplyDelete
  23. Absolutely beautiful - what a wonderful piece of art - to wear.
    Marciae

    ReplyDelete
  24. Fabulous jacket! The pattern style plus the studs embellishments is so perfect. You have such great style not to mention technique!

    Karen

    ReplyDelete
  25. GORGEOUS, Margy, just GORGEOUS! As you know, I saw many in-process pics and this still takes my breath away. It's a little bit bolero-matador-ish and you are rocking it!!!! It is so fun to see how you used this great ponte knit, which is not like your usual ponte in weight/feel - it's almost neoprene-ish. ADORE!!!

    ReplyDelete
  26. Oh my. Gorgeous! Fabulous! Magnificent! Awe-inspiring! This is just a perfect "Margy Jacket" and you look beautiful. I love the shape and length of the lower sleeves--very flattering. You make such wonderful garments with a lovely artistic flair. Can't wait to see what comes out of your studio next!

    ReplyDelete
  27. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  28. That is FA. Coolest most gorgeous jacket EVER. I bow to your magnificence! LOVE IT!

    ReplyDelete
  29. Need a new word here for this. I'm going with ... AMAZEBALLS!

    ReplyDelete
  30. smashing! You can even carry a gluestick for an emergency. truly do love it

    ReplyDelete
  31. You are totally rocking the jacket Margy, and *may* have inspired me to attempt something along similar lines. At least it is going into the queue of Great Sewing Ideas!

    ReplyDelete
  32. Love your jacket. You are so stylish and talented.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Speechless! I knew this was going to be a goody, and you did not disappoint! Beautifully sewn...I guess sewn isn't necessarily the word we're looking for...lovingly crafted with artistic genius...yep, I like that better!

    ReplyDelete
  34. So great! Amazing, stylish, and fun.

    ReplyDelete
  35. Gosh, absolutely wonderful - love it

    ReplyDelete
  36. Oh, my, this is so stunning and looks like a lot of fun to make and wear. I'm a fan of Isobel Marant too, she has the best windows in her Paris shops, always fun to snoop shop, and I love her looks, but the sizing is for whippet girls, so it is fun to see a DIY interpretation that works so seamlessly! 5 stars, you are rocking it, Margy and it shows.
    Marcy

    ReplyDelete
  37. I have a picture of that jacket in my inspiration file. Love you version. It is Fabulous!

    ReplyDelete
  38. As a patron of a rural post office myself, I LOVE your comment about getting a package from "Hot Fix Queen". Hope you told them it was to help with your studs....

    ReplyDelete
  39. This is fabulous. What a labor of love with 806 studs. Wow!

    ReplyDelete
  40. You are just so fabulous in that jacket. Wow and Wow!

    ReplyDelete
  41. I'm speechless! You outdid yourself this time. You are one very talented lady.

    ReplyDelete
  42. That jacket is stunning and you wear it well. Oh my gawd, it is gorgeous.

    ReplyDelete
  43. Oh. My. There is always a really good reason for new tools, right? Stunning.

    ReplyDelete
  44. I can't even stand how cute and great you are! FLOORED by this!!

    ReplyDelete
  45. Fantastic and that is how it looks on you, you are so patient.
    x

    ReplyDelete
  46. Fabulous and you wear it with such elan! Awesome work, Margy!

    ReplyDelete
  47. This jacket is incredible--the construction is flawless and it looks amazing on you! Bravo!

    ReplyDelete
  48. Tres, tres cool! And it looks incredible on you. Congrats on a smash hit.

    ReplyDelete
  49. It is awesome, and looks great on you!

    ReplyDelete
  50. That is soooooo AMAZING! I love that you took your time to get just the jacket you wanted and it looks stunning on you!

    ReplyDelete
  51. What an amazing jacket! Do you mind if I shamelessly copy you? �� I made a jacket with hot fix studs a couple of years ago and haven't lost a stud yet.

    ReplyDelete
  52. You are soooo talented. Truly a work of art!

    ReplyDelete
  53. Not 805, not 807, but 806! I had to laugh. Awesome, awesome jacket!! Really. I didn't think real live people could do these things without huge machines. I'd never heard of a hot fix tool. What a wonder device. And your Elna press is pretty special too. Most importantly, this jacket look smashing on you. The longer sleeve is perfect with the short style.

    ReplyDelete
  54. OMG, this is crazyland, but you totally rock it! I'm amazed.

    ReplyDelete
  55. I like your jacket. Well done.

    Thank you. Love love, Andrew. Bye.

    ReplyDelete
  56. i have no better adjectives than everything previously said, but i came over via carolyn and i just had to add my two cents: WOOOOOOOOOOOOW.

    ReplyDelete
  57. Absolutely wonderful! I had meant to comment before,so I was delighted to find your pst saved on my Feedly. It really is spectacular on you.

    ReplyDelete
  58. I'm just discovering your blog. Quite frankly, I don't know what took so long for me.This jacket is astounding! It took lots and lots of creativity, time and energy. You did an absolutely wonderful job. Can't wait to see what comes next. I'm looking forward to seeing tons of great things here. Happy stitching.

    ReplyDelete
  59. Smashing! The jacket and you wearing it. What a beautiful process of manifestation.

    ReplyDelete
  60. C'est magnifique! I've looked at Isabel Marant's jackets up close in Paris. They are worth every Euro, but yours is just a good looking! Great job!

    ReplyDelete